Was the Golden Chain Reserved for Chanel?
Chanel is famous for her quilted jackets with golden chains. She was not, however, the only designer who used golden chains in their jackets. According to the Spadea Sewing Book, Bill Blass used golden chains to retain a superb hang in his suit jackets. Bill Blass released sewing patterns under Spadea and Vogue. Blass used golden chains to act as a gentle weight and to keep the weight evenly distributed along the entire lower edge of the jacket. In addition, it helped to keep the jacket in position and lessened the possibility of wrinkling.
The type of chain is constructed with flattened links used explicitly to sew into a garment. A jewelry chain is not the same and cannot be used as a substitute. The chain is sewn 1/8" above the lower edge of the jacket, against the hem, and sewn into place by hand after finishing the jacket.
Use a clear monofilament nylon thread when sewing. It is strong and nearly invisible. The chain should be catched in every other link along both the upper and lower edges of the chain.
The chain should be removed when the jacket is dry-cleaned since pressing may cause the impression of the chain to show on the outside of the jacket.
Consider a flat-linked chain in your next jacket project. This technique isn't reserved just for Chanel.
